An independent guide to independent travel in India. Not a tour operator, visa centre or official website; not connected with the former website on this domain.
Destinations
India is often described as a continent rather than a country, and on a first trip you feel that straight away. The north, with its old capitals and forts, is nothing like the palm-fringed coast, and the mountains are nothing like the humid green south. It is easier to choose not by famous names but by a combination of three things: the time of year, your pace and what genuinely interests you. Below are six destinations where people usually begin getting to know the country, and four questions to help you settle on one.
On a first visit you don't take on India whole, but one piece at a time. One part of the country seen carefully gives you more than five seen in a rush.
How we chose these destinations: they are the places travellers most often visit first and can reach independently. We only give specific facts that have been checked; everything else is described in general terms.
Six destinations, from the capital region in the north to the tropical south.
A vast city where old quarters with narrow lanes sit alongside wide avenues and parks. It is usually where people start exploring the north: there are plenty of monuments, markets and museums, but also plenty of noise, so don't overload your first few days.
A northern city known above all for the Taj Mahal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. Agra is one of the three points of the Golden Triangle and is easy to reach from Delhi.
Jaipur completes the Golden Triangle, and around it stretches a land of forts, palaces, desert landscapes and vivid textiles. Summers can be extremely hot, so trips are usually planned for the cooler months.
India's smallest state by area, famous for its coastline. People come for the sea, warm evenings and an unhurried pace, and also visit the old quarters with their cathedrals and the spice plantations inland.
Cool air, winding roads, monasteries on the slopes and villages above the valleys. Mountain roads are slow and depend on the weather, so come with time to spare and not in the first days of your trip.
Green hills, canals and backwaters, tropical greenery and a different rhythm of life. The south suits those who are ready for a humid climate and want a gentle introduction to the country away from the big cities of the north.
Four questions to ask yourself before you buy tickets.
The season decides almost everything. Across most of the country the monsoon rains fall roughly from June to September, while on the Goa coast the most pleasant time is usually roughly November to March.
Monuments and forts, the sea, the mountains or slow life by the water: the answer immediately narrows the choice to one or two regions.
The big cities of the north are noisy and crowded. If you need peace and quiet, start with the coast or the south and add the cities later.
Each transfer takes up almost a whole day. The shorter the trip, the fewer places on the map you should include.
Three routes by type of place: a week on the Golden Triangle, the north plus the sea, and a slow beach holiday.
The Taj Mahal, forts, old quarters, markets, beaches and backwaters: what to see in the north and on the coast.
A step-by-step plan for your first trip to India, with examples, common mistakes and a pre-departure checklist.
This guide covers independent travel to India in general terms. Visa rules, visiting arrangements at monuments and sacred sites, the weather and conditions on the road all change, so check them against official sources shortly before you fly.